[chbot] chemical milling
David Closey
david.closey at gmail.com
Sun Dec 6 23:13:22 GMT 2020
Mark
I have tried exactly as you suggest
Paint over copper then laser off and etch
It is written up in a few places on the web (see below)
I had some success but resolution was a bit to be desired
(I couldn’t do smd parts) so was not much of an advantage over std methods
I found the same with milling pcbs
Résolution was limited to through hole
I think Russel’s method with screen printing resist and using the transparency from rs components is most exciting for home prototyping
Be interested to hear how you get on
https://www.instructables.com/Custom-PCB-Prototyping-using-a-Laser-Cutter/?amp_page=true
David
Sent from my iPhone
> On 7/12/2020, at 10:43, Mark Atherton <markaren1 at xtra.co.nz> wrote:
>
> Thanks Andrew,
>
> The hydrogen peroxide/hydrochloric acid solution looks most interesting; never heard of it before.
>
> My largest complaint back-in-the-day when using Ferric Chloride was the indelible orange-stain that the spills caused.
>
> Anyway, I am looking into chemical-milling some thin copper sheet, and you may have solved one of the issues.
>
> Just wondering about spraying a thin layer of paint on the copper. Removing the 'resist' using a laser cutter, then etching the remaining piece.
>
> Anyone have any experience with a similar process ??
>
> -Mark
>
>
>
>> On 07 December 2020 at 09:14 Andrew Errington <erringtona at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Ferric chloride is nasty, and becoming increasingly difficult to get.
>>
>> Try hydrogen peroxide and hydrochloric acid (or hydrogen peroxide and vinegar). Instructions on the web. I have tried it and it works.
>>
>> Andrew
>>
>> On Mon, 7 Dec 2020, 08:56 Marshland Engineering, < marshland at marshland.co.nz> wrote:
>> Is this Ferric Chloride still available in NZ ?
>>
>> I have some ammonium persulfate but FC works at room temperature which makes
>> it easier.
>>
>> Cheers Wallace
>>
>>
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