[mythtvnz] OT: Cat5e sharing phone and audio - any issues?

[Matt Poff]

Great tip cheers! Always surprised where sparkies can feed cable blind - 
now I know the secret. It' s actually not going to be too bad in this 
case because I've got to remove some of the sarking anyway to put some 
insulation in. Thankfully I've already carted about four rubbish bags of 
rats nests, dessicated rats and their droppings when I put insulation in 
the roof  (probably the worst job I've  had to do, especially when you 
add in the rusty roofing nails poking through the roof sarking). Found a 
living Wellington tree weta in one of the old walls when I took out a 
window so who knows!

I'll take your advice and give the conduit a miss. Thought it might be 
useful if there's insulation in the wall too but, in all honesty with 
the cabling set-up I'm putting in now I'll be a bit surprised if I have 
to run additional services in the future.

Matt


Noel & Di wrote:
> Make sure you leave a substantial draw wire  (Not nylon or builder's 
> line)  in the cc25.  I use either 2.5mm conduit wire, or an offcuts of 
> cat5 with a fig8 knot in either end to ID it.  You could dispense with 
> the conduit in the walls if you've got a sarked wall - sparkie's tip 
> follows...
> drill a 25mm hole where you want your wall plate (pref next to a stud) & 
> then set a torch to shine into this hole, go into the ceiling & drill a 
> hole in the top plate next to (& on the same side as) the stud 20mm is a 
> good size that doesn't make the battery drill work too hard - use the 
> nails in the top plate as a guide to where the studs are.  Then drill a 
> SECOND hole about 70mm from this as a "looking hole" angle it slightly 
> towards the torch below.  When you peer down this you will see the torch 
> light below(hopefully).  About 50mm back from the end of your cable make 
> a 90 degree bend, then pop it into the wire-hole. Observe it's decent 
> through the "looking hole" & when it's near the target you'll see it 
> illuminated by the torch light.  Rotate the cable till the "tail" pokes 
> out the torch hole. It's easier if you have a fisher-person at the 
> bottom with a hook-wire otherwise it's allot of climbing up & down.  Now 
> feed the conduit over the cable using it as a guide - from the top is 
> easier.  Personally I'd not use the conduit inside the wall & use the 
> wooden cavity of the wall itself as mechanical protection for the cable.
> Good luck & may your roof be clear of cobwebs & rodent bodies!
>
> Matt Poff wrote:
>
>   
>> Right. Hopefully shouldn't need to drill through too many studs as most 
>> of the walls are 100 years old, balloon framed without nogs but cladded 
>> in sarking. I'll just feed a number of vertical drops of 25mm corrugated 
>> PVC conduit from the roof space, so mostly just drilling holes through 
>> the top plate and never more than two of these on any one wall.
>>
>> Any recommendations on spacing of saddle straps for fixing conduit to 
>> the framing? I'd like to fix it as I may pull additional cable through 
>> in the future and don't want the conduit moving around when I do this. I 
>> could just wrap electrical tape around the conduit and stud on the new 
>> internal wall but obviously not possible on the existing external walls.
>>
>>
>> yuri wrote:
>>  
>>
>>     
>>> On 26/09/2007, Criggie wrote:
>>>  
>>>    
>>>
>>>       
>>>> you don't want to be drilling excessively big holes through the
>>>> framing and weakening your walls.
>>>>    
>>>>      
>>>>
>>>>         
>>> You can safely drill up to one third width in the centre of the timber.
>>> EG in 90 by 45 mm framing you can drill up to 30mm hole safely without
>>> undermining the structural integrity of your house.
>>>
>>> Yuri
>>>
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>
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