[chbot] chemical milling

David Closey david.closey at gmail.com
Sun Dec 6 23:13:22 GMT 2020


Mark 
I have tried exactly as you suggest 
Paint over copper then laser off and etch 
It is written up in a few places on the web (see below) 

I had some success but resolution was a bit to be desired 
(I couldn’t do smd parts) so was not much of an advantage over std methods 

I found the same with milling pcbs 
Résolution was limited to through hole 

I think Russel’s method with screen printing resist and using the transparency from rs components is most exciting for home prototyping 

Be interested to hear how you get on 

https://www.instructables.com/Custom-PCB-Prototyping-using-a-Laser-Cutter/?amp_page=true


David 


Sent from my iPhone

> On 7/12/2020, at 10:43, Mark Atherton <markaren1 at xtra.co.nz> wrote:
> 
> Thanks Andrew,
> 
> The hydrogen peroxide/hydrochloric acid solution looks most interesting; never heard of it before.
> 
> My largest complaint back-in-the-day when using Ferric Chloride was the indelible orange-stain that the spills caused.
> 
> Anyway, I am looking into chemical-milling some thin copper sheet, and you may have solved one of the issues.
> 
> Just wondering about spraying a thin layer of paint on the copper. Removing the 'resist' using a laser cutter, then etching the remaining piece.
> 
> Anyone have any experience with a similar process ??
> 
> -Mark
> 
> 
> 
>> On 07 December 2020 at 09:14 Andrew Errington <erringtona at gmail.com> wrote: 
>> 
>> Ferric chloride is nasty, and becoming increasingly difficult to get.
>> 
>> Try hydrogen peroxide and hydrochloric acid (or hydrogen peroxide and vinegar). Instructions on the web. I have tried it and it works.
>> 
>> Andrew
>> 
>> On Mon, 7 Dec 2020, 08:56 Marshland Engineering, < marshland at marshland.co.nz> wrote: 
>> Is this Ferric Chloride still available in NZ ? 
>> 
>> I have some ammonium persulfate but FC works at room temperature which makes 
>> it easier. 
>> 
>> Cheers Wallace 
>> 
>> 
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