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Hi Robin,<br>
<br>
There are several polarizer technologies available to LCD
manufacturers. One type requires a backlight, others are available
that are viewable in direct sunlight. It could a swap between these
when you moved to the new LCD which has caused the issue (or
affected your expectation). See
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.lxdinc.com/faq/difference_between_reflective_and_transreflective">http://www.lxdinc.com/faq/difference_between_reflective_and_transreflective</a><br>
<br>
Older LED backlights have sometimes needed upwards of 80mA to
squeeze some light through-the-shutter while newer are much less
hungry.<br>
<br>
So there are lots of things that affect readability, see if complete
datasheets are available for the units you are happy and unhappy
with and see if you can find the parameter in question which is
different.<br>
<br>
-mark<br>
<br>
<br>
From: "Robin Gilks" <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:robin@gilks.org"><robin@gilks.org></a><br>
<blockquote cite="mid:1439175420.28349612@apps.rackspace.com"
type="cite">Greetings all<br>
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10pt; word-wrap: break-word;"><br>
I've only ever used green and yellow HD44780 style character
mode LCDs and<br>
they have had a backlight (which draws a LOT of current) but
been<br>
perfectly readable without the backlight being on.<br>
<br>
I'm now playing with a blue one and the backlight has to be
on to read it<br>
- is this normal for blue LCDs ?<br>
<br>
I haven't checked the current yet (rebuilding alpha hardware
into beta<br>
stage prototype) but I'm guessing its quite low since modern
blue LEDs<br>
seem to be very efficient.<br>
<br>
Cheers<br>
<br>
-- <br>
Robin Gilks<br>
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