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This is a very big subject.... <br>
<br>
<br>
<blockquote
cite="mid:375736.91994.qm@smtp103.tnz.mail.aue.yahoo.com"
type="cite">1) Get or create a design.</blockquote>
<br>
Yes, most 3d printers use STL files to define the 3d object. Lots
of cad program can export to STL, and even if they dont meshlab can
import a lot of 3d format files and can save as STL <br>
<blockquote
cite="mid:375736.91994.qm@smtp103.tnz.mail.aue.yahoo.com"
type="cite">
<br>
<br>
1a) Assume that the starting point is to print a simple object
from <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.thingiverse.com/">http://www.thingiverse.com/</a> - learning to design items can be
left as a later activity.
<br>
</blockquote>
Correct, but quickly you find you want to tweak the file a little. <br>
Most simple things are designed in opencad. but can be any CAD
program that exports STL<br>
I would recommend anyone with a 3d printer to learn basic openscad<br>
<br>
<blockquote
cite="mid:375736.91994.qm@smtp103.tnz.mail.aue.yahoo.com"
type="cite">
<br>
2) Convert to some kind of motion vectors
<br>
</blockquote>
Commonly called slicing <br>
<br>
<blockquote
cite="mid:375736.91994.qm@smtp103.tnz.mail.aue.yahoo.com"
type="cite">
<br>
2a) What is the most common intermediate format, is it G code - if
not, then what ?
<br>
</blockquote>
gcode is the final format, its is what is passed to the controller
to implement all machine functions. From heating up the hot end to
movements of and axis.<br>
<br>
<blockquote
cite="mid:375736.91994.qm@smtp103.tnz.mail.aue.yahoo.com"
type="cite">
<br>
2b) What are the recommendations for the best free/open source
solutions to convert from design to printing motion activities ?
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
Many people swear by slic3r and may other at slic3r....
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://slic3r.org/">http://slic3r.org/</a><br>
The main contender in my view is cura <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://software.ultimaker.com/">http://software.ultimaker.com/</a><br>
There are others...<br>
<blockquote
cite="mid:375736.91994.qm@smtp103.tnz.mail.aue.yahoo.com"
type="cite">
<br>
3) Convert the output of 2) into a format that can be carried to
the hardware controller.
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
3d printers such a reprap have intelligent controllers, they
interpret the gcode on the micro controller. <br>
<blockquote
cite="mid:375736.91994.qm@smtp103.tnz.mail.aue.yahoo.com"
type="cite">
<br>
3a) Presumably there is a name for the physical link, and payload,
again, name please.</blockquote>
<br>
not really. Its just gcode.<br>
<blockquote
cite="mid:375736.91994.qm@smtp103.tnz.mail.aue.yahoo.com"
type="cite">
<br>
<br>
3b) What are the recommendations for the best free/open source
solution, or does 2) also drive the interface ?
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
pronterface is a popular minimalist GUI. It allows you to load the
STL file, call up slic3r and then spool the generated gcode to the
printer.<br>
Cura is also a GUI, looks fancier but is limited when it comes to
tweaking settings. <br>
<br>
<blockquote
cite="mid:375736.91994.qm@smtp103.tnz.mail.aue.yahoo.com"
type="cite">3c) What is the currently most popular physical
interface (USB, LPT, etc.)
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
USB, really its serial over USB. <br>
<blockquote
cite="mid:375736.91994.qm@smtp103.tnz.mail.aue.yahoo.com"
type="cite">
<br>
4) Controller interface to hardware
<br>
<br>
4a) Plugs into 3c).. What are the names of popular, low cost,
readily available controllers, and suppliers ?
<br>
</blockquote>
There are two types... arduino based and the newer arm based
board.. all arm board should be considered experimental. <br>
<br>
RAMP's is the most popular, its is modular, being a PCB stack. Is
available all over the internet. But I would not go for a cheap
board. 'They' do nasty things like inferior MOSFETs and thin pcb
tracks and connector plugs that are not up the currents required.
<br>
<br>
There are many boards that are basically a ramps but all on one
board solutions. These are good in some ways, except if you have to
repair it... <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://reprap.org/wiki/Comparison_of_Electronics">http://reprap.org/wiki/Comparison_of_Electronics</a><br>
NB this is editable, and unscrupulous sellers add in their
proprietary boards...<br>
<br>
The cheapest board is the Sanguinololu (but get 1284p chip not the
smaller 644p)<br>
These work well, but are the minimal solution.. no extras. <br>
<br>
Gen7 is also good, if you want to make your electronics from
scratch. <br>
<br>
I personaly like reprapdiscount.com they are really good, and
their representative is available on the #reprap irc channel. They
are also good at returns etc if there should be an issue. <br>
<br>
<br>
<blockquote
cite="mid:375736.91994.qm@smtp103.tnz.mail.aue.yahoo.com"
type="cite">
<br>
4b) I think older interfaces used a pretty dumb motor controller
using an LPT port. Are smarter controllers now used ?
<br>
</blockquote>
3d printers require real time movements. Operating systems where
found to be dreadful at this, so all timings are on the smart
controller. A delay in movement == a blob in the 3d printing world<br>
<blockquote
cite="mid:375736.91994.qm@smtp103.tnz.mail.aue.yahoo.com"
type="cite">
<br>
4c) What not to buy, and suppliers to avoid ?</blockquote>
<br>
Avoid most cheap reprap stuff from china, especially controllers and
hotends. <br>
<blockquote
cite="mid:375736.91994.qm@smtp103.tnz.mail.aue.yahoo.com"
type="cite">
<br>
5) Hardware interface
<br>
<br>
5a) A collection of stepper motors are attach to 4a). Which
stepper motor type is more popular, bipolar of unipolar ?
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
Bipolar<br>
<blockquote
cite="mid:375736.91994.qm@smtp103.tnz.mail.aue.yahoo.com"
type="cite">5b) recommendations for typical stepper motor size,
NMEA type etc.</blockquote>
Most printers are designed around nema17<br>
<br>
<blockquote
cite="mid:375736.91994.qm@smtp103.tnz.mail.aue.yahoo.com"
type="cite">
<br>
<br>
5c) Any special features for the stepper motors (voltage, dual
shafts etc)
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
<table aria-live="polite" role="log" view-type="IRCUser"
class="msg-table">
<tbody>
<tr mark="odd" msg-user="kthx" timestamp="1411369765603"
status-text="[2014-09-22 19:09:25]
kthx!~kthx@19-72-ftth.on.nl" view-type="IRCUser"
dest-type="IRCUser" msg-dest="incognito675 ME!" msg-prefix=""
msg-type="PRIVMSG" class="msg">
<td class="msg-user"><a href="irc://freenode/kthx,isnick"
class="chatzilla-link"><span></span></a><br>
</td>
<td class="msg-data"><span>ideal stepper is ideal stepper is
NEMA17 size, rated 1.5A to 1.8A or less, 1-4 volts, 3 to 8
mH, 62oz.in (0.44Nm, 4.5kg.cm) or more of torque, 1.8 or
0.9 degrees per step (200/400 steps/rev respectively), for
example the kysan 1124090/42BYGH4803 or the rattm 17HS8401
or Wantai 42BYGHW609</span></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<br>
Single shaft, 5mm diameter.<br>
<br>
<blockquote
cite="mid:375736.91994.qm@smtp103.tnz.mail.aue.yahoo.com"
type="cite">
<br>
6) Mechanical frame
<br>
<br>
6a) From first hand experience, recommendations and warnings about
current designs.</blockquote>
<br>
Most currently recommend the I3, there are two models, the plate and
the box. The original plate is cut from 6mm aluminium, but has no
support in the Y direction. It wobbles and needs bracing.<br>
Modern laser cut wood frames are good as long as they have the
braces.<br>
Box is also fine. (but looks primitive)<br>
Stay away from acrylic printers, looks pretty but it fractures at
all stress points <br>
<br>
the mendel 90 is also a good printer. <br>
<br>
Delta type machine look cool and will print faster, but are
exponentially hard to get working properly. If you go delta get a
laser cut kit, you need the accuracy. <br>
<br>
<blockquote
cite="mid:375736.91994.qm@smtp103.tnz.mail.aue.yahoo.com"
type="cite">
<br>
7) Omissions, corrections
<br>
<br>
7a) Anything I have forgotten
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
This is a big subject... One that comes to mind is what materials do
you want to print.<br>
Main contenders are ABS and PLA, but there are others, and some that
require higher temperatures which dictate what type of hot ends you
need.<br>
<br>
Hot ends, very important you do not get a jhead clone from china<br>
Jheads and aluhotends are good for PLA and ABS (hotends.com and
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://3d-industries.myshopify.com">http://3d-industries.myshopify.com</a>)<br>
If your wanting hotter things such as nylon, you need a all metal
hotend. but these do not like PLA<br>
<br>
Nozzle sizes<br>
<br>
0.5 0.4 0.35 0.3 are all commonly available. The smaller the nozzle
the finer the detail you can print. But the smaller the nozzle the
longer prints take to print. I would recommend .4 for most new
printers.. you can change it out later if you want. <br>
<br>
<blockquote
cite="mid:375736.91994.qm@smtp103.tnz.mail.aue.yahoo.com"
type="cite">7b) Things I have got wrong ?
<br>
<br>
7c) Pointers to a web site, quick start guide document, or book
that may cover these questions in more detail ?
<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
Everything in on <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://reprap.org">http://reprap.org</a> and discussions and question on
the forums. <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://forums.reprap.org/index.php">http://forums.reprap.org/index.php</a> live chat on
irc://freenode/reprap<br>
<br>
Documentation. All documentation is just a rough guide. Since its
maintained by the community its is always one step behind the latest
gear <br>
<br>
<blockquote
cite="mid:375736.91994.qm@smtp103.tnz.mail.aue.yahoo.com"
type="cite">
<br>
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</blockquote>
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