<div>I wasn&#39;t trying to be academic or argue over ounces/feet/pounds/inches/newtons/metres. Sorry if it came across that way. I just thought that as a group of roboticists we should be clear on something as fundamental as torque. I figured this list is about helping each other out, so I was trying to be helpful by correcting an error. </div>
<div><br></div><div>Good work finding the article, it looks like a useful technique. </div><div><br></div><div>Simon.</div><div><br></div><div><div><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Jul 7, 2011 at 3:12 PM, Mark Beckett <span dir="ltr">&lt;<a href="mailto:m.beckett@amuri.net">m.beckett@amuri.net</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex;">Simon<br>
If the authors terms spelling or otherwise offends or confuses you, then<br>
simply move on.<br>
<br>
If you are so keen on Foot pounds of torque then divide by 192.<br>
The actual method of checking is correct, which is what the article was<br>
about.<br>
<br>
The reason I presented it to the group, was it was a relatively easy<br>
means to check an otherwise unknown stepper motor.<br>
<br>
/While the academic amongst the group argue over the correctness of the<br>
written theory, the more practical will have done any checks and moved on./<br>
<br>
Mark<br>
<div class="im"><br>
<br>
On 7/07/11 14:26, Simon Knopp wrote:<br>
&gt; Your quoted excerpt makes my point: torque is measured in *ounce<br>
&gt; inches*, not ounces per inch. Torque = force x distance, not force /<br>
&gt; distance.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; Ounce(force) per inch would be a valid unit for stiffness, not for<br>
&gt; torque.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; Simon.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; On Thu, Jul 7, 2011 at 2:12 PM, Simon Chester &lt;<a href="mailto:simonches@gmail.com">simonches@gmail.com</a><br>
</div><div class="im">&gt; &lt;mailto:<a href="mailto:simonches@gmail.com">simonches@gmail.com</a>&gt;&gt; wrote:<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;     It&#39;s not incorrect: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque#Units" target="_blank">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque#Units</a><br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;         In British unit, &quot;pound-force-feet&quot; (lbf x ft),<br>
&gt;         &quot;foot-pounds-force&quot;, &quot;inch-pounds-force&quot;, &quot;ounce-force-inches&quot;<br>
&gt;         (oz x in) are used, and other non-SI units of torque includes<br>
&gt;         &quot;metre-kilograms-force&quot;. For all these units, the word &quot;force&quot;<br>
&gt;         is often left out, for example abbreviating &quot;pound-force-foot&quot;<br>
&gt;         to simply &quot;pound-foot&quot; (in this case, it would be implicit<br>
&gt;         that the &quot;pound&quot; is pound-force and not pound-mass).<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;     On Thu, Jul 7, 2011 at 12:07 PM, Simon Knopp<br>
&gt;     &lt;<a href="mailto:shrunken.apple.head@gmail.com">shrunken.apple.head@gmail.com</a><br>
</div><div class="im">&gt;     &lt;mailto:<a href="mailto:shrunken.apple.head@gmail.com">shrunken.apple.head@gmail.com</a>&gt;&gt; wrote:<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;         I stopped reading the first link when I saw &quot;...torque is<br>
&gt;         usually measured in ounces per inch&quot;. A whole page about<br>
&gt;         measuring torque prefaced by an incorrect definition. Oops.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;         Simon.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;         On Thu, Jul 7, 2011 at 11:43 AM, Mark Beckett<br>
</div><div><div></div><div class="h5">&gt;         &lt;<a href="mailto:m.beckett@amuri.net">m.beckett@amuri.net</a> &lt;mailto:<a href="mailto:m.beckett@amuri.net">m.beckett@amuri.net</a>&gt;&gt; wrote:<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;             Since there is a dgree of interest around steppers<br>
&gt;             I found this while searching for something else.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;             <a href="http://www.romanblack.com/stepper.htm" target="_blank">http://www.romanblack.com/stepper.htm</a><br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;             I&#39;m sure the members could improve on the glue it down<br>
&gt;             approach.<br>
&gt;             Also he is measuring the hold torque, which will be<br>
&gt;             different to the<br>
&gt;             rotating torque.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;             For Robin<br>
&gt;             He has a very interesting section on one wire<br>
&gt;             <a href="http://www.romanblack.com/blacknet/blacknet.htm" target="_blank">http://www.romanblack.com/blacknet/blacknet.htm</a><br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;             For those folowing the CNC he has this<br>
&gt;             <a href="http://www.romanblack.com/cnc_good.htm" target="_blank">http://www.romanblack.com/cnc_good.htm</a><br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;             Mark<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;             On 4/07/11 16:43, HARTLEY, ROBIN (ROBIN) wrote:<br>
&gt;             &gt; Hi,<br>
&gt;             &gt; I&#39;ve looked at the trim routers and initially<br>
&gt;             disregarded them as they are 1/4 chuck, rather than 1/8,<br>
&gt;             and a lot heavier than a dermal.<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt; After destroying 2 home made spindles, 1 after 10 hours<br>
&gt;             work cutting ali which I think was an air flow issue&amp;  the<br>
&gt;             next after 20 minutes because it was a cheap armature, I<br>
&gt;             may well look at the trim routers again.<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt; The extra weight puts higher demands on the Z axis,<br>
&gt;             which in my case is where I found out all about some<br>
&gt;             uni-polar steppers not liking bi-polar drive with PWM.<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt; Due to my design I&#39;m a bit limited on space&amp;  I got<br>
&gt;             another stepper but it has the same problem.<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt; There was a comment in this thread about speed control,<br>
&gt;             here&#39;s my experience.<br>
&gt;             &gt; Most of these home made machines are routers rather than<br>
&gt;             mills&amp;  so cut with a very fine feed so you only need<br>
&gt;             enough speed rather than managing a speed feed<br>
&gt;             relationship of a mill where it produces chips.<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt; My approach is to do a test piece run and adjust the<br>
&gt;             depth of cut to keep chatter under control, almost<br>
&gt;             impossible with a plastic cased dermal.<br>
&gt;             &gt; I then ramp the speed up until I here the spindle start<br>
&gt;             to load significantly, I can hear the speed drop, then set<br>
&gt;             my G code to run up to about 50% of that feed rate.<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt; With a home made spindle, which is basically a cheap<br>
&gt;             dermal knock off  removed from it&#39;s case and ali blocks<br>
&gt;             for bearing mounts, I can cut 2mm deep at about<br>
&gt;             150mm/minute feed.<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt; The secret to cutting ali is to keep it flooded with<br>
&gt;             coolant. In my case I use lots of CRC. I basically stand<br>
&gt;             there with a spray can&amp;  keep the grove full of CRC.<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt; For any one building a machine alignment of the feed<br>
&gt;             screws is the biggest issue. What worked for me is to<br>
&gt;             mount a bearing on the lead screw on the opposite end from<br>
&gt;             the motor&amp;  clamp the lead screw against for/aft movement<br>
&gt;             and at the motor end I use a piece of rubber fuel line as<br>
&gt;             a coupler. The modern reinforced fuel injection line has a<br>
&gt;             lot of reinforcing that prevents twist.<br>
&gt;             &gt; For lead screws I use 8mm threaded rod, 1.25mm per<br>
&gt;             turn,&amp;  for the nuts I use a piece of plastic chopping board.<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt; Regards,<br>
&gt;             &gt; Robin<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt; -----Original Message-----<br>
&gt;             &gt; From: <a href="mailto:chchrobotics-bounces@lists.linuxnut.co.nz">chchrobotics-bounces@lists.linuxnut.co.nz</a><br>
&gt;             &lt;mailto:<a href="mailto:chchrobotics-bounces@lists.linuxnut.co.nz">chchrobotics-bounces@lists.linuxnut.co.nz</a>&gt;<br>
&gt;             [mailto:<a href="mailto:chchrobotics-bounces@lists.linuxnut.co.nz">chchrobotics-bounces@lists.linuxnut.co.nz</a><br>
&gt;             &lt;mailto:<a href="mailto:chchrobotics-bounces@lists.linuxnut.co.nz">chchrobotics-bounces@lists.linuxnut.co.nz</a>&gt;] On<br>
&gt;             Behalf Of Chris Hellyar<br>
&gt;             &gt; Sent: Saturday, 2 July 2011 11:03 a.m.<br>
&gt;             &gt; To: Christchurch Robotics<br>
&gt;             &gt; Subject: Re: [chbot] building CNC router - was Free<br>
&gt;             stepper motors<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt; &#39;Urro...<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt; Given a dremel new is $120-150 ish...<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt; Trim routers like these:<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             <a href="http://www.powertoolshop.co.nz/product_info.php/cPath/20_96/products_id/20" target="_blank">http://www.powertoolshop.co.nz/product_info.php/cPath/20_96/products_id/20</a><br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt; For $119 with a full alloy body are a better bet.<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt; As I see it, it&#39;s cylindrical so it&#39;s easier to mount,<br>
&gt;             no speed control<br>
&gt;             &gt; inbuilt so you can use a closed loop speed control on it<br>
&gt;             for better<br>
&gt;             &gt; cutting in soft stuff.  It&#39;ll also have higher rotor<br>
&gt;             inertia and a<br>
&gt;             &gt; better quality chuck.<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt; There are a few on the market.  When I last looked there<br>
&gt;             were a few<br>
&gt;             &gt; options on the shelf at Bunnings/Mitre10 that looked good.<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt; I was specifically thinking dremel replacements for<br>
&gt;             wood/plastic/alloy<br>
&gt;             &gt; cutting.  If you&#39;re looking for dedicated spindle ebay<br>
&gt;             is probably your<br>
&gt;             &gt; friend..<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt; And, having said all that, my next project is going to<br>
&gt;             be swinging a<br>
&gt;             &gt; water cooled VFD spindle.  I am sooooo over the noise of<br>
&gt;             brushed routers!!!<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt; Cheers, Me.<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt; On 02/07/11 10:17, Volker Kuhlmann wrote:<br>
&gt;             &gt;&gt; On Sat 02 Jul 2011 02:06:20 NZST +1200, Chris Hellyar<br>
&gt;             wrote:<br>
&gt;             &gt;&gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt;&gt;&gt; There are some very reasonably priced options rather<br>
&gt;             than sticking with<br>
&gt;             &gt;&gt;&gt; a dremel.<br>
&gt;             &gt;&gt; Can you elaborate?<br>
&gt;             &gt;&gt; And are these options for a dremel replacement or a CNC<br>
&gt;             spindle?<br>
&gt;             &gt;&gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt;&gt; Thanks,<br>
&gt;             &gt;&gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt;&gt; Volker<br>
&gt;             &gt;&gt;<br>
&gt;             &gt;<br>
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