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When I was etching my own (using photo resist board), we used to heat
and adjitation to help the etching process.<br>
We used ammonium persulphate, which is a little more friendly.<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.surplustronics.co.nz/shop/product-SA0056.html">http://www.surplustronics.co.nz/shop/product-SA0056.html</a><br>
<br>
or<br>
<br>
<a
href="http://www.globalpc.co.nz/Electronics/Hardware/Prototyping-Boards/Product-Specification-H0802.aspx">http://www.globalpc.co.nz/Electronics/Hardware/Prototyping-Boards/Product-Specification-H0802.aspx</a><br>
<br>
Electroflash sell all the bits, but don't list the etchant, so they
would also be a source.<br>
<br>
<br>
Find an old saucepan, (or from a local supplier) and use warm water.<br>
You can also use the double boiler method to indirectly heat the
etchant.<br>
<br>
Probably best you don't do it in the kitchen.<br>
You can keep the solution and drag it out again if need be.<br>
<br>
I have used Huntsbury for production, they are very reasonable, andd
can handle a wide variety of source.<br>
I suggest you do your own drilling, but make sure they etch the hole,
otherwise its a nightmare.<br>
<a href="http://www.huntsbury.co.nz/index.html">http://www.huntsbury.co.nz/index.html</a><br>
<br>
Mark<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Andrew Errington wrote:
<blockquote
cite="mid:4750.125.248.153.122.1306828660.squirrel@webmail03.lancs.ac.uk"
type="cite">
<pre wrap="">On Tue, May 31, 2011 16:05, Richard Jones wrote:
</pre>
<blockquote type="cite">
<pre wrap="">Kind of you to post the details Andrew,
I've made several attempts at the toner transfer method using .020 inch
tracks and 0.020 inch gaps and failed miserably. I don't recall how I did
the cleaning, stainless steel cleaning pads I think, so maybe the
additional detail is in the acetone. What size tracks and gaps are you
using? I finally gave up and used photo sensitive PCBs instead. With your
encouragement it deserves another try :-)
</pre>
</blockquote>
<pre wrap=""><!---->
Hi Richard,
I don't know what size I'm actually using- whatever are KiCAD's defaults.
I just measured one of the traces on the board and it looks like 0.5mm
track/space, so probably 0.02"
Visually, all the lands are separated (I did a flood fill to reduce how
much copper needed to be removed) so I'll see if I can actually solder
1206 parts and a SOT-23 without bridging the gaps. I might be being a bit
ambitious.
The thing about it is that you can inspect the toner transfer before you
etch. It's frustrating when it doesn't work, due to smudging or poor
adhesion, but you can just wipe it off and start again. It's sufficient
to know that one works, therefore more are possible.
As for the etchant, the ingredients are easier to get than Ferric Chloride
(and slightly less nasty), and extremely cheap.
I'd be happy to discuss it in more detail off-list, but there's not much
more to say.
Keep the copper clean.
Use the blackest toner setting.
Don't move the artwork when you're ironing.
Don't push too hard.
Be careful with the chemicals- wear gloves and goggles, and add the Acid
to the Water, the way you know you oughta.
Best wishes,
Andrew
PS I'll be trying again soon, but my next board needs some holes drilled.
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</pre>
</blockquote>
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