[chbot] Anyone making PCBs?
Andrew Errington
a.errington at lancaster.ac.uk
Tue May 31 14:01:32 BST 2011
Ok, it's assembled and partially tested, and it works!
Soldering SMD is (are?) tedious. But, it's done.
First I filed the edges of the PCB down, including the copper trace that
marked the board edge. Then I covered the whole board with solder. Next, I
used desoldering braid to remove most of it. The gaps between traces and the
ground islands were wide enough to stay clear. Then I soldered my components
one by one. The trickiest one was an LDO regulator in a SOT-23-5 package.
The LED is supposed to light when the voltage drops below 10.36V. This is
the 'empty' level of my 10 pack of NiMH cells. If I see the LED light up
when the pack is being used I know it's time to recharge. I haven't tested
the threshold voltage exactly, but the LED is off when I connect it to the
pack (should be about 12V or more) and on when I connect it to a 9V battery.
If I tap the 7th cell in the pack the LED lights. So, it's in the ball park.
I have space on the PCB to add another resistor to adjust the voltage
divider, but I'll get hold of a bench PSU and multimeter to test it properly.
So, it's possible to do this all with little in the way of exotic chemicals or
equipment. I used the following:
KiCAD software
Laser printer
Supermarket advertisement paper
Abrasive cleaning pad
Acetone (nail varnish remover)
An iron
Soapy water
Hydrochloric Acid (maybe can found as Muriatic Acid for cleaning swimming
pools)
Hydrogen Peroxide (can be found for cleaning contact lenses)
Plastic pot with lid
Rubber gloves
Single-sided copper-clad PCB material
I used about 20ml of acid and 20ml of peroxide. My board is about 12mm by
30mm. It took about 20 minutes at room temperature. I believe the etchant
can be reused for quite a while.
That's all for now!
Andrew
More information about the Chchrobotics
mailing list