[chbot] Anyone making PCBs?

[Richard Jones]

For easy drilling I often lay out the PCB on a 0.1 inch pitch and use
veroboard for a drill template. But 1206 surface mount components are good
deal quicker to mount than through hole. Lightly tin the board at each end
of the component mounting, place/hold the component and reflow with a fine
soldering iron or air gun. Works so well for me that I prefer surface mount
while I can still get 1206 components.

Richard

On Tue, May 31, 2011 at 8:27 PM, Mark Beckett <m.beckett at amuri.net> wrote:

 When I was etching my own (using photo resist board), we used to heat and
> adjitation to help the etching process.
> We used ammonium persulphate, which is a little more friendly.
>
> http://www.surplustronics.co.nz/shop/product-SA0056.html
>
> or
>
>
> http://www.globalpc.co.nz/Electronics/Hardware/Prototyping-Boards/Product-Specification-H0802.aspx
>
> Electroflash sell all the bits, but don't list the etchant, so they would
> also be a source.
>
>
> Find an old saucepan, (or from a local supplier) and use warm water.
> You can also use the double boiler method to indirectly heat the etchant.
>
> Probably best you don't do it in the kitchen.
> You can keep the solution and drag it out again if need be.
>
> I have used Huntsbury for production, they are very reasonable, andd can
> handle a wide variety of source.
> I suggest you do your own drilling, but make sure they etch the hole,
> otherwise its a nightmare.
> http://www.huntsbury.co.nz/index.html
>
> Mark
>
>
>
>
> Andrew Errington wrote:
>
> On Tue, May 31, 2011 16:05, Richard Jones wrote:
>
>
>  Kind of you to post the details Andrew,
>
>
> I've made several attempts at the toner transfer method using .020 inch
> tracks and 0.020 inch gaps and failed miserably. I don't recall how I did
> the cleaning, stainless steel cleaning pads I think, so maybe the
> additional detail is in the acetone. What size tracks and gaps are you
> using? I finally gave up and used photo sensitive PCBs instead. With your
> encouragement it deserves another try :-)
>
>
>
>  Hi Richard,
>
> I don't know what size I'm actually using- whatever are KiCAD's defaults.
> I just measured one of the traces on the board and it looks like 0.5mm
> track/space, so probably 0.02"
>
> Visually, all the lands are separated (I did a flood fill to reduce how
> much copper needed to be removed) so I'll see if I can actually solder
> 1206 parts and a SOT-23 without bridging the gaps.  I might be being a bit
> ambitious.
>
> The thing about it is that you can inspect the toner transfer before you
> etch.  It's frustrating when it doesn't work, due to smudging or poor
> adhesion, but you can just wipe it off and start again.  It's sufficient
> to know that one works, therefore more are possible.
>
> As for the etchant, the ingredients are easier to get than Ferric Chloride
> (and slightly less nasty), and extremely cheap.
>
> I'd be happy to discuss it in more detail off-list, but there's not much
> more to say.
>
> Keep the copper clean.
> Use the blackest toner setting.
> Don't move the artwork when you're ironing.
> Don't push too hard.
> Be careful with the chemicals- wear gloves and goggles, and add the Acid
> to the Water, the way you know you oughta.
>
> Best wishes,
>
> Andrew
>
> PS I'll be trying again soon, but my next board needs some holes drilled.
>
>
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